Recipe: “Pulled” Squash and Summer Truffle Spoon Bread with Spicy Tomato jam, micro mustard greens and parmesan tuile
If you are looking for a bit of elegance and, dare I say, a taste of the sublime, you must visit Circa 1886 at the Wentworth Mansion in Charleston. This hidden oasis of elegance has received the AAA Four Diamonds, a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence and DiRoNA Award. It is recognized by Forbes and Conde Nast among their "Top 100 Restaurants."
Tucked away in the former carriage house of the mansion at 149 Wentworth St., executive chef Marc Collins has spent the past nine years quietly making a huge mark in, and for Charleston in the international dining scene. His updated take on old Charleston receipts combines the freshest local ingredients with influences of England, Scotland, the West Indies, the American South and Native American into his own unique world of flavors and textures. The menu is seasonal, as are the ingredients. This challenge however never taxes his seemingly inexhaustible creativity and the obvious joy he takes in his profession.
That atmosphere is reflected in the staff and the surroundings. The room is intimate, yet elegant, reflecting the ambience of 19th century Charleston. The hospitality of the staff is perfected in their welcoming smile and proper attentiveness. The flurry of activity around the room seems perfectly in tune and not at all distracting or hurried. There is plenty of time to enjoy the coming bounty.
Dinner begins with a nod to the Low Country’s rice culture and the mansions builder with warm and fresh rolls from rice flour. The butter provided is tempered for spreading. A bit too soft and it will quickly disappear to be replaced immediately with the perfect one. Our surprise complementary soup was followed by an ideal Truffle Infused “One Pot”, Sous Vide of Duck Leg Confit, Field Peas and Whole Wheat Corn Bread. That’s a mouth full. Truly, it is a mouth full of flavors so intriguing and fine you simply must close your eyes.
My second course of Grilled Maple Farms Grass-Fed Beef Tenderloin was perhaps the best I have ever tasted. Chef Collins tells me he did nothing special to it but I’m sorry, I don’t believe him. I’m still trying to cajole the secret out of him. This was easily the most flavorful piece of meat I’ve ever tasted. My better half was treated to 1886’s signature dish, Seared Broken Arrow Ranch (Texas) Antelope Loin. This is a reflection of Collins’ southwestern sojourn and apprenticeship which we are very happy he retained. “We use a loin filet that is completely lean and best served medium rare,” he explained. “It’s a good taste of the exotic without tasting too exotic.”
Desert was equally up to our now high expectations. Her unique Sweet Potato Crème Brulee topped with Blackstrap Molasses Marshmallow and my Chocolate Truffle Souffle were an ideal finish.
We also recommend the wine pairing. This additional service adds so much to an elegant dinner where the chef and sommelier work in such harmony. Circa 1886’s wine cellar boasts nearly 300 bottles available to pair with each dish.
Chef Collins says he may spend a month writing a menu. He creates seasonal menus throughout the year relying on as much locally produced items as he can find. This commitment to high quality ingredients and service is reflected in his commitment to sustainable seafood.
Collins and owner Rick Widman have collaborated in creating a restaurant known for real, honest Low-Country cuisine in a fine dining atmosphere. We look forward to spending many seasons there.
“Pulled” Squash and Summer Truffle Spoon Bread with Spicy Tomato jam, micro mustard greens and parmesan tuile
Tomato Jelly
- 10 Roma tomatoes (peeled)
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1 large red bell pepper (roasted, seeded and peeled)
- 1/4 cup fresh orange juice
- 6 T. lemon juice
- 3 cloves garlic (peeled)
- 1 shallot
- ¼ tsp. Tabasco
- ¼ tsp. dried basil
- pinch crushed red pepper flakes
Place all the ingredients into a sauce pot, cooking over a moderate heat. Stir occasionally. Cook this until everything is very soft. Pulse with a hand blender so that the mixture resembles jam. Cool and reserve for use
Parmesan Tuiles
- 1lb. Grated Parmesan Cheese
- 1 Large summer truffle (minced fine)
Place the shredded parmesan in the shapes of triangles onto a silpat. Garnish with the minced truffles and bake in a convection oven at 350°F for 3 to 7 minutes. Keep a close eye on them, pull and cool completely.
Spoon Bread
- 4 cups Milk
- 1 T. White Truffle Oil
- 1 cup Cornmeal
- 2 T. Butter
- 1 ¾ tsp. Salt
- 4 Eggs, separated
- 2½ cups Cooked spaghetti squash (loosely packed)
- 3 T. Minced Summer Truffle
- Fresh Chives
- Micro mustard greens (Available at The Chef’s Garden)
- Clarified Butter
Cut spaghetti squash in half. Season with salt and white pepper and brush with clarified butter. Bake on a sheet tray, flesh side down, at 325°F convection oven for 20 to 35 minutes or until fork tender. Once cooked, “pull” and scrape out the flesh with a fork and set aside.
Lightly beat your egg yolks, set aside. Scald the milk and stir in the cornmeal. Cook this mixture for 3 minutes stirring constantly. Add the butter, truffle oil, salt and beaten egg yolks. Fold the spaghetti squash into the cornmeal mixture. Next whip the whites till light and fluffy and fold this into the cornmeal base. Add minced chives and truffles.
Place a ring mold atop a small cast iron pan and spoon mixture into it. bake in a 350°F convection oven for 12 to 15 minutes. It should look like a firm soufflé when done. Once cooked, run a knife around the ring mold and pull it off the spoon bread. Serve immediately garnished with the tomato jam spooned on top then micro mustard greens and finally the parmesan tuile.
Wine: Pinot Gris, Westrey, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2001
Article courtesty of Mark Barna
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